When choosing between engineered and solid hardwood, it's not about what's "better" in general. It's about where you're putting it, how well your home handles humidity, and how many times you want to sand it in the future. We break down construction, refinishing, installation conditions (like concrete, basements, and radiant heat), lifetime value, and maintenance so you can make a choice that lasts.
Quick answer (TL;DR) Choose engineered for concrete slabs, basements, condos, radiant heat, and wide planks with fewer gaps between seasons. It's real wood on top of a stable core that keeps its shape. Choose solid for the longest possible service life and the most future refinishing cycles. This is best on wood subfloors above grade. Both are made of real wood, but they are built differently and shine in different ways.
What is engineered hardwood?
A real hardwood wear layer is glued to a multi-ply (usually plywood) or composite core to make engineered hardwood. The cross-layered build makes the planks more stable, so they don't move as much when the humidity changes with the seasons. This is why they are often used over concrete and can work with radiant heat (depending on the product).
Can engineered be refinished?
Yes, but only if the wear layer is thick enough. The NWFA Engineered Wood Flooring Refinishable Program lists products that can be sanded and refinished, such as those with a factory-finished "once-refinishable" thickness of at least 2.5 mm and a "twice-refinishable" thickness of about 3.2 mm. Sculpted or distressed floors must have a thickness of at least 2.5 mm at the lowest point.
What is solid hardwood?
A single piece of wood is used to make solid hardwood. It is the traditional choice for long-lasting floors and can usually be sanded and refinished many times over the years, as long as the tongue and groove are still thick and the previous sanding history allows it.
Comparison side by side
| Factor | Engineered Hardwood | Solid Hardwood |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | Real-wood wear layer over a stabilized core | Single species throughout |
| Humidity stability | Excellent (cross-ply core resists movement) | Good, but expands/contracts more |
| Over concrete / below grade | Common with proper vapor control and approved adhesive/system | Possible but more complex; moisture risk is higher; usually not below grade |
| Radiant heat | Many products approved; observe product limits; typical guidance caps subfloor/surface ≈ 85 °F / 29.4 °C | Possible with added caution and assemblies; stability is more sensitive |
| Refinishing | Yes if wear layer is adequate (per manufacturer/NWFA thresholds) | Typically multiple full sandings |
| Wide planks | More stable at wider widths | Wider planks show more seasonal movement |
| Up-front cost | Often competitive for wide planks & slab installs | Often higher for premium species/widths |
| Lifetime value | Strong; depends on wear-layer thickness & product quality | Highest potential lifespan with proper care |
Note: Radiant and concrete guidance should follow NWFA guidelines/appendices and the specific manufacturer’s technical sheets.
Where each choice makes the most sense
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- Installing on concrete (slabs, high-rises) or below grade with the right moisture testing, vapor retarders, and approved adhesives.
- You want wide planks with fewer gaps between seasons (like in a farmhouse) and longer lengths.
- You have radiant heat, and your product is rated for it. Follow the NWFA/manufacturer's instructions and keep the temperature of the subfloor surface at or below 85 °F.
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- You have a wood subfloor above grade and want the most traditional feel and the most future refinishing cycles.
- You want the home to last a long time because you plan to live there for a long time.
Refinishing and how long it lasts (reality check)
Engineered: The thickness of the wear layer decides how much sanding will be needed in the future. Labels from NWFA say that the finish is at least 2.5 mm thick (factory-finished and once-refinishable) and about 3.2 mm thick (twice-refinishable). The lowest point of sculpted or distressed products must be at least 2.5 mm. Always check the exact item.
Solid: Usually can be refinished several times, depending on how thick it is and how many times it has been sanded.
Weles has some related reading:
How to Refinish Your Own Hardwood Floors
Is refinishing hardwood floors worth it?
What is the Best Thickness for Engineered Wood Flooring?
Conditions for installation that determine the winner
Basements and concrete
The concrete needs to be flat, clean, and dry. If you need to, use a vapor retarder (perm ≤ ~0.13) and follow NWFA for moisture testing. The concrete should be at least 30 days old before testing. Engineered is usually the safer and easier way to go over slabs.
Radiant heat
Follow the NWFA and manufacturer instructions and use options that are dimensionally stable. Typical advice says to keep the temperature of the subfloor and surface close to 85 °F (29.4 °C) and to slowly raise and lower the RH and ramp systems to avoid shocks.
Weles has some related reading:
Wide Plank Hardwood Flooring: Pros & Cons
Where Not to Install Hardwood Floors
Basements & Concrete
- The concrete needs to be flat, clean, and dry.
- Use a vapor retarder (perm ≤ ~0.13) and follow NWFA for moisture testing.
- Concrete should be at least 30 days old before testing.
Radiant Heat
- Follow NWFA/manufacturer instructions and use dimensionally stable options.
- Keep subfloor/surface temperature close to 85 °F (29.4 °C).
- Slowly ramp systems and humidity to avoid shocks.
Price and value over time
Engineered often costs less to install on slabs and wide planks (because there are fewer subfloor layers and the installation is faster), but it still lasts a long time when there are enough wear layers.
Solid may cost more up front, but it lasts the longest because it can be refinished many times. This is great for homeowners who plan to stay in their home for a long time.
Styles, finishes, and widths
Both types come in the most popular styles of the day: warm, natural colors, matte finishes, long and wide shapes, and textures like wire-brushed and lightly distressed. Engineered is the safer choice for tight gaps if you want very wide planks. Check out our in-depth look at polyurethane (oil- vs. water-based) for finish systems. Using Polyurethane to finish floors.
Everyday durability and upkeep
The finish choice (and care) is often more important than the raw Janka hardness. To keep dirt off the floor, use felt pads and think about screen and recoat before sanding the whole thing to bring back the shine and protection. Do you have pets in your home? Start here: Pet-Friendly Hardwood: The Best Choices and How to Care for Them
Decision helper (quick answers)
Basement or slab? Engineered (with the right moisture system).
What is radiant heat? Engineered product rated for radiant; maximum subfloor surface temperature is about 85 °F. =
Want the longest possible life and a lot of sandings? Solid.
Want the look of wide-plank floors with fewer gaps? Made to work.
Changing humidity? Engineered tends to move less.
FAQ
Yes. The top layer is real hardwood, and the core is made to be stable.
It depends on the wear layer. The NWFA program finds engineered floors that can be refinished. These floors are usually at least 2.5 mm thick (once) and about 3.2 mm thick (twice) if they are made and put in according to the rules.
It can be done with the right subfloor and careful moisture control, but engineered is much more common over slabs because it is more stable and easier to put together.
The NWFA says that the maximum temperature for a subfloor or surface is usually around 85 °F (29.4 °C).